What is over processing and how do I avoid it? - 24 Sep 2018

In previous years (over a decade ago now) Elleebana was available in bottles/vials/ampoules, the formula back then processed for 10 – 15 mins for the lifting step and then 7 minutes for the neutralising step.  So many salons that trained and offered eyelash lifting/eyelash perming using this product moved away from offering lash lifting/lash perming services because of the length of time spent performing the treatment required the salon to charge more than a client was prepared to pay in order to make money for their allotted time.  The ampoules also exposed the lotions to air and saw the product begin to oxidise and reduce in effectiveness.

Elleebana redesigned the lotions, improved the raw materials used and decreased the processing times as well as changed the packaging from the ampoule to the single use sachet back in 2007 and in 2017 over 1.5 million lash lifts were performed using the Elleebana one shot lash lift system!  You see, salons need to maximise their days and the beauty of Elleebana’s fast processing time allows you to see more clients in a day – meaning more profit at the end of your week and it means clients are not laying down for as long to get a beautifully lifted lash result.  It’s easy to see why salons and clients love this treatment but we wanted to share with you all some of the finer details to get your chosen timing just perfect for each client.

On each of the Elleebana products the processing time offers the range – Lift for 5 – 10 mins and set for 5 mins as determined by the clients lash strength.  We want to explain these time ranges in detail for you, you see as a company we have to advise all of the possibilities for the potential client that might come to see you but we also know that Elleebana’s product is incredibly unique and operates differently to all other brands on the market – if you were using another brand and have come over to use Elleebana you may wish to adjust your previous techniques to help you get the best possible results and to ensure your clients lash health.

ADVANCED PROCESSING TIMES – leaving lotions on for too long can split and or frizz the lashes. This might not happen immediately but the lashes will begin to show signs of damage after a period of time (it might be only a few hours up to 24 hours later or it might be a week or two later). Assessing a client’s lash strength might not always be determined by sight alone – you may notice that the lashes are more resistant to rolling back onto the rod and this might give you an indication that they have a stronger lash core. The client might have identified to you that when they curl the hair on their head it drops quickly and this might give you some other indicators that they have stronger lashes. Equally they might have mentioned that their hair is incredibly fine or holds a curl very well, this might indicate a finer hair structure and a faster processing time is required.  Medications and hormonal changes also can be a factor for clients lash strength/resistance.

The general rule of thumb for first time clients when using Elleebana products will be processed with step 1 (lifting lotion) with 6 minutes and step 2 (setting lotion) with 5 minutes. This processing time will work for a large majority of your client base and is a good processing time to begin with if you have clients with medium to strong visually appearing lashes.

SHORT PROCESSING TIMES – A client’s ethnicity or heritage can sometimes indicate either a shorter or longer processing time. Other more visual lash conditions/health can be apparent just by looking at the lashes. For a fine lash that is thin, sparse or lighter in colour or for ethnicities whose lash strength is naturally softer or finer you will need to decrease your first time processing time. In some cases dropping the processing time for step 1 (lifting lotion) down to 4 minutes and step 2 (setting lotion) with 3 minutes – these processing times can still achieve amazing results on clients with lashes that require this reduced processing time. Some processing time options for visually thinner or weaker natural lash conditions are:

LIFT: 3 mins SET: 2 mins – this is not a common processing time for many clients

LIFT: 4 mins SET: 3 mins

LIFT: 5 mins SET: 4 mins

AVERAGE PROCESSING TIMES – This is the larger percentage of clientele that we see and find these processing times are often the go to times for lifting clients who have average lash strength, thickness, density and those whose lashes lift easily. At this stage we can increase the step 1 processing time (lifting lotion) but the setting time must remain at 5 mins.

LIFT: 6 mins SET: 5 mins – used for majority of all first time and returning clients

LIFT: 7 mins SET: 5 mins – this might be used on clients who return after their first lift and they feel their lift wasn’t enough (alternatively you can decrease your rod size)

EXTENDED PROCESSING TIMES – In the case that a client’s lashes are stronger than average and you have attempted to process at 6 mins and 5 mins to find that their lashes didn’t lift enough you can, in your next appointment, increase your lifting time by 1 minute at a time. The setting time (step 2) must remain at 5 mins until the lifting lotion processing time has been maximised. For instance:

LIFT: 7 mins SET: 5 mins

LIFT: 8 mins SET: 5 mins

LIFT: 9 mins SET: 5 mins – this is a very rare required processing time

LIFT: 10 mins SET: 5 mins – this is an extremely rare required processing time

Only after all of these attempts and appointments would you then increase the setting lotion to 6 mins


SAME APPOINTMENT RE-LIFT PROCESSING TIMES In the case that you have performed the lash lift on a client and the lift has not taken in the way you or your client would have liked you are able to re-lift your client’s lashes again in that same appointment, however, your processing time must be decreased by half or less the processing time.

NOT ENOUGH OF A LIFT If for instance if you lifted a client’s lashes for 6 mins and 5 mins, you have completely dried the lashes and assessed them and there was some visible lift but just not enough of a result you would reprocess the lashes again for 2 mins for lifting and 2 mins for setting.

NO VISIBLE LIFT AT ALL In the case that your client’s lashes after lifting for 6 mins and 5 mins and you have assessed the dried state of the lashes and there is no visible lift you may proceed with re-lifting the lashes again for 3 mins and 2.5 mins If the client has left the salon and time has passed since the treatment (at least 24 hours) you would need to consider the result and the condition of the client’s lashes before you choose the processing time that you wish to use.


Training is always recommended and client’s trust that a salon has learnt about the unique factors of the brand that they are choosing to use from a master so to see check out our training calendar for Australian workshops https://www.elleebana.com/our-training/ or to view a distributor in your country https://www.elleebana.com/where-to-buy/


This article has been written by Zoe Mitter and produced for Ex-Import Niche Products.  Modification, misuse, copying or reproduction of this content in any manner without written permission from Ex-Import Niche Products is prohibited and Copyright laws will apply.  Sharing the link and giving credit to Ex-Import Niche Products for the content is allowed”.